By Anne Levin
Among the highlights of late summer in New Jersey are the rows of big, juicy peaches that appear at local farm stands and farmers markets, followed by apples in early fall.
Not this year. Thanks to an April heat wave followed by a cold snap, crops were struck at precisely their crucial developmental stage. The unusual weather ruined peaches, cherries, and apples across the state, causing Gov. Mikie Sherrill to declare a State of Emergency in all 21 counties and seek federal support.
“There will not be a peach in New Jersey this summer,” said Tannwen Mount, co-owner of Terhune Orchards on Cold Soil Road. “This season is going to be a little different. Tree fruit in New Jersey, most of Pennsylvania, and northern Maryland has been impacted by the freeze. We’re all seeing how things will roll out.”
The very hot days forced all of the fruit trees to bloom at once instead of several weeks in a sequence, said Mount. “Then we had a severe freeze over two nights, and that was just devastating for all of those things in bloom — not just for us, but for the whole region.”
“Governor Sherrill’s declaration of a State of Emergency sends a clear message that New Jersey stands behind its farming community in the wake of the April freeze,” said Ed Wengryn, New Jersey secretary of agriculture, in a statement last month. “This executive order cuts through bureaucracy and opens the door to immediate assistance for our tree fruit and berry growers, while laying the groundwork for broader relief ahead. As our farmers work to recover, we encourage New Jerseyans to continue supporting them by buying local. When the state
and federal government move together, our farmers are stronger for it.”
Terhune Orchards and Ornery Acres at Krowicki Farm are the two tree fruit growers represented at the West Windsor Farmers Market, located each Saturday in the Vaughn parking lot of Princeton Junction train station. Manager Chris Cirkus said the two farms are permitted to sell fruit from out-of-state, East Coast growers, as long as they provide labels on the tables.
“We want consumers to be able to have these products,” said Cirkus. “We also want them to have the conversation, so they know what is happening. We also don’t want them running to the grocery stores when they can get the products right here. And we know the quality of the product is going to be to the farms’ standards. They’ve vetted it.”
Both Terhune and Ornery Acres have been participating in the West Windsor market for more than two decades. “We know them, we know their properties and their histories,” said Cirkus. “We pride ourselves on the long-term relationships we have with these growers. That affords us the luxury of allowing us to change our rules in seasons where they are having difficulties. The goal, at the end of the day, is to get people educated on why you should support New Jersey farmers. That’s why we exist.”
At Russo’s Fruit and Vegetable Farm in Tabernacle, the loss is 100 percent on peaches, and 90 percent on apples, according to Russo family member and manager Joann Gsell. The farm has a popular stand at the Trenton Farmers Market.
“All of the farms that grow peaches and apples in New Jersey have been similarly impacted,” she said. “We will see what the next option is — the closest place we can source them from if they are good quality. But it’s hard to find a substitute for a nice, juicy, New Jersey peach.”
While Tabernacle has lost one or two of the 23 varieties of apples they grow in past years, it has never been to the current extent. “We have nothing on the apple trees,” Gsell said. “That is really unusual. All of our varieties are hurt, and that has never happened.”
Terhune has added some new festivals and activities to make up for the loss of fruit. “This is the year, more than ever, to buy local,” said Mount. “This is the year to eat your veggies, and we grow 60 different crops. We’re pivoting as we can, and have a lot of fun things lined up. We hope the community will support us while we wait for the return of Jersey peaches next year.”