COUNTRY STORE: The Cherry Grove farm store is filled with a variety of items to tempt the taste buds! Not only does it offer a selection of the Farm’s own cheeses and meats, but also an array of locally-sourced artisanal foods, drinks, and gifts. In addition to the homemade soups, sauces, beef chili (made with the farm’s own grass-fed beef), jams, and honey, a number of holiday gift specialties are available including chocolates, homemade scones, seasonal sweets, and more. Holiday gift baskets are a special feature, also on display.
By Jean Stratton
Cherry Grove Farm is unique in the area. The only dairy farm in Mercer County (and the only one making cheese from the milk of its own cows), it has a long history of environmentally-friendly, regenerative farming, and humane treatment of its cows and pigs. Its farmstead cheese, grass-fed beef, and whey-fed pork have been prized by customers for many years.
Indeed, respect for the land, the environment, and the animals has always been the priority of Cherry Grove Farm. Located at 3200 Lawrenceville Road (Route 206) in Lawrenceville, the farm has a long history dating to pre-Revolutionary War days.
In 1987, the three Hamill brothers — Oliver, Sam, and Bill — inherited the 400-plus acres of undeveloped land in the Lawrenceville/Princeton area. Their ancestors had actually farmed the land at one time, but over the years, the operation was leased to various farmers, and the land suffered under more and more intensive conventional farming techniques, explains Oliver Hamill.
“Land preservation and locally-grown food are family passions, and we decided to create something special — something that would give back to the community while keeping the land healthy and undeveloped for generations to come.”
Regenerative Farming
The Hamills, with their children, were determined to regenerate the land by embracing sustainable farming, using vintage pastoral techniques as a guide. The focus would be artisanal farmstead cheese, and everything done on the farm would support the making of a quality handcrafted product.
“What we are doing here at Cherry Grove is actually more than sustainable or organic,” explains Tish Streeten, agritourism manager. “It’s what is known as regenerative farming. We are working to restore the ecosystem and create beneficial environmental outcomes for current and future generations. Our goal is to continually increase biodiversity, enrich the soil, and improve ecosystem function, which then provides higher yield and greater health and resilience for the soil, the plants, the animals, the people, and the community.”
“Everything on the farm is interconnected, inter-related, and works together,” she continues. “We practice rotational grazing, and we do not use any chemical fertilizers, herbicides, or pesticides. This is much healthier for the animals, plants, and people.”
At Cherry Grove, everything is put to use, and nothing is wasted. As Streeten adds, “We are a dairy and cheesemaking farm. When you make cheese, the milk is separated into curds and whey. Cheese is made from the curds, and the whey is a by-product, which is usually discarded. We feed our whey to our heritage breed pigs, which provides them with an excellent source of protein, active beneficial bacteria, and it gives the pork an extra delicious flavor.”
Dairy Herd
In addition, Streeten explains, “Beef cattle are not our primary focus, but we do keep a small number of beef steer who graze with the dairy herd when they are young. Thus, although we raise cattle and pigs, and they do provide meat for our customers, their main purpose is to provide diversity and to create a healthy, interconnected farm with no waste.”
Cheese is surely the Cherry Grove highlight, and its excellence has been recognized with awards from the American Cheese Society and the Good Food Foundation, among others.
The cheesemaking process is a very precise endeavor, with milk flowing from the cows’ “parlor”/barn into the temperature-controlled creamery, overseen by head cheese-maker Paul Lawler.
“The cows’ milk reflects the changing grasses and pasture plants season by season,” notes Hamill, “and you can taste these seasonal shifts in the cheese varietals. We emphasize European-style cheesemaking, focusing on quality, not quantity.”
Among the six popular seasonal cheeses, a favorite is the award-winning Havilah, which is a “Gruyere in the Alpine family, married to Gouda,” explains Lawler.
Others include Buttercup Brie, Abruzze Jawn, Herdsman, Rarebird, and Toma. In addition, Lawler has created two specials for the holidays: Snowball, a brie with a lemony flavor; and Truffle Maker, including “local mushrooms, truffle shavings, a rind rubbed with truffle oil, and aged with vegetable ash.”
Cherry Grove has become a member of the New Jersey Dairy and Cheese Guild, notes Lawler. “There is a demand now for products from smaller farms and operations, and there are 16 members of the Guild all over New Jersey.”
PRESSING THE CHEESE: Head cheesemaker Paul Lawler is hard at work at Cherry Grove Farm’s cheese press. Known for its award-winning cheese, Cherry Grove Farm uses the farmstead cheesemaking model, meaning that everything is done on site, from raising and milking the cows to making and aging the cheese. An expert cheesemaker, Lawler has been honing his skills for 20 years (10 at Cherry Grove). (Photo by Shilpa Iyer)
Regional Cheeses
Adds Streeten, “We are really excited by the newly formed New Jersey Dairy and Cheese Guild. The Guild’s mission is to support, encourage, and advocate for the New Jersey small-scale dairy and cheesemaking community. We look forward to hosting cheese and dairy-related events in the coming year to share the joy and art of regional cheeses and dairy products.”
The cheese is showcased at the farm store and is also available at a number of markets and restaurants in the Princeton area and beyond. The Princeton and Hopewell Nomad Pizza locations include Cherry Grove’s Toma cheese in their popular pizza.
The farm store, administered by Rich Morillo, is always a favorite spot, especially during the holidays. Its variety of items — from cheese and meat to bread and biscuits to honey from the farm’s own bees, and cider, as well as hats and scarves from alpaca wool — are big attractions.
In addition, reports Streeten, “Emma Klaus, our baker, makes special holiday/seasonal items every Friday, and Christine Shaw, our chef, makes Cherry Grove seasonal treats. We will also have her special European-style hot chocolate when we have the winter hayrides.”
Cherry Grove offers a series of classes, workshops, and events for children and adults, including an upcoming winter hayride (with songs and hot chocolate). Also, a holiday market is being planned for Sunday, December 21 to celebrate the winter solstice. In addition, a special holiday class in which people can decorate ornaments is another favorite.
Streeten organizes classes and events throughout the year. Among others, cheesemaking and breadmaking are especially popular, as are the foraging classes and opportunities. Gift cards are an excellent way to introduce someone to an event, class or workshop, she notes.
First Fridays
“Every month, we have cheesemaking classes, where participants can watch cheese being made, and then make their own mozzarella, ricotta, and burrata,” she explains. “We also have special family classes, including Mozzarella For Families.”
Another family event is First Fridays Farm Fun, she adds. “The first Friday of every month, families can watch the milking, and there are hay rides and music. The kids love this! And we also have winter hayrides, that pass by the cows in the fields.”
Events and classes are geared to the season, and two popular occasions are Tea On The Farm and Tea With The Cows in the summer. Coffee With The Cows is a very engaging event, when visitors can see the milking and the cows close up.
Two other animals are also on hand to welcome visitors to the farm. Vincent van Goat and Mr. Tumnus are the resident goats, always looking for some interaction with new friends.
Among them are groups of students from nearby schools who come yearly, and enjoy getting an overall view and tour of the farm.
Employees from corporations also visit for team-building events and classes, reports Streeten. She notes that gift cards for events are available.
“Cherry Grove is unique, and learning about this special place is indeed a pleasure for all ages,” she says. “It offers an opportunity to understand and experience a way of life that is making a significant difference to the land, to the animals, and ultimately to the people.”
Special Place
Cherry Grove customers include many longtime regulars from all over the Princeton area and beyond, who appreciate the farm and its dedicated staff. It is indeed a special place, not only for the customers, but for those who come to work there every day.
As Streeten says, “I love coming to a beautiful place, knowing that I am working with people who are taking good care of the land and our animals, and with people who are making and selling good, healthy food. I also love showing groups of children (and grownups!) the farm, our animals, and how to make cheese or how to forage.
“Cherry Grove and all small farms, especially regenerative farms, are absolutely vital for the health, survival, and resilience of the earth, our food systems, and future generations. We not only offer our customers good healthy food, but also a chance to get to know the place where their food comes from, and how it is made.
“We also want to support other local farms, cheesemakers, and small businesses. We do this by offering their products in our farm store and by collaborating with small farms, artisans, and the community on events, classes, and workshops.”
Christmas trees and wreaths are now available at the farm, and Cherry Grove is open seven days a week. Current hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. For further information, call (609) 219-0053 (farm store), and visit the website at cherrygrovefarm.com.