By Anne Levin
When restauranteurs Raoul and Carlo Momo received approval to demolish the building that housed their Terra Momo Bread Company and the Little Taste of Cuba cigar shop at the corner of Witherspoon Street and Paul Robeson Place nearly three years ago, they were excited about replacing it with a three-story, mixed use project containing a restaurant, bakery, gourmet market, and three apartments.
But the project has been stalled, and the brothers have had enough. An email last week to friends and supporters of Terra Momo Restaurants (Eno Terra in Kingston, Mediterra, and Teresa Caffe in Princeton) indicated that they have sold the property to an unidentified local investor.
“While we began development of this project with tremendous energy and enthusiasm, the process was ultimately not an easy or enjoyable one for a variety of reasons,” the email reads. “Therefore, after much deliberation and careful consideration, we have decided to sell 70-74 Witherspoon Street.”
“So many things were stacked up against us,” Raoul Momo elaborated in a phone conversation. “We tried so hard to get it past the finish line. We were approved three years ago. We’re not a developer, we’re a small family business. So the cost of not getting anything done with a vacant building is very painful.”
While he doesn’t specifically fault the town, Momo was clearly frustrated by the slow pace of the project.
“I know other people in town who go through the same thing, and it’s a shame,” he said. “You see these massive projects going up, and it’s just not right. We don’t blame anybody, but when you’re a small business, you [the town] can’t do that to people who are trying to get things done. I don’t have 50 units going up there. It’s three apartments. It’s totally impossible for us to do it.”
The rising cost of construction was a key factor.
“To briefly explain our decision, we received Planning Board approvals in October of 2022, and after working diligently to develop the project and complete construction documents, the process has taken us to the point where, nearly three years later, we are only now ready to submit drawings to the building department, during which time construction costs have steadily risen far above what we ever imagined the project would cost,” the email reads.
The constant delays and costs “took the proverbial wind out of our sails, making the project untenable for us,” it continues.
Not everyone was pleased in 2022 with the Momos’ plan to tear down 70-74 Witherspoon Street and rebuild, particularly those interested in preservation. The building is at Griggs Corner, which has a distinctive history but is not officially designated historic. From 1931 to 1976 it was home to a beauty salon run by Virginia Mills, whose husband was the first Black postman in Princeton. Toto’s Market, which closed in 1987 after 75 years, was also located there.
While respectful of the site’s history, the Momos determined the building was too dilapidated to be saved. They planned a complete rebuild, designed by architect Leslie Dowling, who is Carlo Momo’s wife.
“We were looking forward to adding a new concept to the Princeton dining scene that we are so proud to be part of and wanted to share with our beloved community what this experience has been for us,” the email concludes. “Much has changed in Princeton since we first arrived nearly 40 years ago, but what hasn’t changed is our promise to deliver quality food and wine with warm, welcoming hospitality.”